There are many things to marvel about in St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna: the crypts; the bells; the catacombs; its gothic pulpit; the chapels; the décor; not forgetting its iconic roof, made up of almost a quarter of a million multi-coloured glazed tiles.

However, for me, as Cologne or even Rye can bear witness, I find it hard to be reverential when there is an opportunity to gain a high vantage point.

At St Stephen’s Cathedral, there is a choice of two towers to scale: the south and the north ones.  The Südturm––affectionately known as Steffl––and the Nordturm.  The south tower requires climbing up 343 stairs to its summit.  The north tower, by contrast, is shorter and accessible by a lift.  Strictly for wimps.  It is the south tower for me.

The 343 steps appeared rather a modest challenge after Cologne’s 533, but St Stephen’s had a few surprises up its sleeve.  The first of which was where to find the entrance.  It was tucked away outside the cathedral, hidden behind a parked van at the time that I visited.

The first 200+ steps of the ascent are up a very narrow stone spiral staircase unrelieved by any form of landing or stopping-off point.  It is one long continuous dizzying climb.

Relief eventually appears in the shape of an even narrower stone corridor and a tiny––strictly one-person––ancient wooden seat, of which I duly make service.  After that, the final climb to the summit is child’s play. 

Tantalisingly, the staircase continues further, but it is blocked off to the public, such that almost half of Steffl’s height is out of bounds.  Instead, I am directed through a wooden door to the Watch Room, an internal gallery about 67 metres above street level, with 360° views from its windows across the city.  It is not quite the thrill of emerging onto an open-air gantry––which is the case from the North Tower––but still well worth the climb.

© E. C. Glendenny

E. C. Glendenny enjoys the views of Vienna.