Right or left? Robert Frost wrote about two roads, which diverged in a wood. I found myself facing a similar dilemma at Glendalough, County Wicklow. All the signposts said to go right; all the people were going right; all the ‘attractions’ were clearly to the right. And so, I turned left. Perversity? Perhaps. But, also curiosity. And, if I hadn’t turned left, I never would have discovered St. Saviour’s Priory.

A 15-minute tramp along a clearly-defined footpath in the direction of Laragh; a moment of indecision at a barrier across the path, which seemed to suggest that the route ahead was closed––how often do I encounter similar hazards while out on a walk; is there an evil deity whose sole role is to place unnecessary dilemmas in the way of ramblers?––a reassuring sign, indicating a left turn to St. Saviour’s Church; and a short walk through a lowering trail of dark, low trees before, there, in a bright clearing, emerged the 12th century building, evocative in its ruin, surrounded by a low, grassy earthwork.

On all sides were trees and greenery; the old stone church complementary rather than clashing with the landscape. Beautiful as the main complex of Glendalough is, it is hard to escape the crowds; here, I was alone and, as a result, the past appeared nearer.

I admired the chevron decoration of the main chancel arch; the starkness of a Game of Thrones window; the delicate green ferns growing on the stone walls.

I left long before the scene was spoiled by anyone else chancing upon the pleasures afforded by taking a left turn at Glendalough.
© E. C. Glendenny

E. C. Glendenny heads off the beaten track.
