The volcanic cone of Eldfell is visible from almost every corner of Heimaey in the Westman Islands but, before 1973, it didn’t exist at all.

The series of volcanic eruptions on Heimaey in 1973 resulted in the entire population being temporarily evacuated; the surface area of the island being increased by around 20%; and a 200-metre volcano to be left standing on the outskirts of the main town.

Nowadays, it is a relatively easy walk to the summit of Eldfell.  I pick up a path soon after leaving the island’s museum, Eldheimar, which has many exhibitions devoted to the 1973 eruptions.

The trail to the summit is less than two kilometres in length and takes about three quarters of an hour.  It is a bleak moonscape, although perhaps a comparison with Mars would be more appropriate, as the prevailing colour of the surrounding landscape is russet-red.

The track circumvents the peak in a long spiral, rising along a broad ridge, the actual summit lost in low cloud ahead.  Visibility reduces to a few hundred metres; any possible view below swiftly disappearing; fellow walkers suddenly emerging, wraith-like, out of the mist, before vanishing again.

The summit of Eldfell is unremarkable, only indicated by a rather bizarre contraption, which might have something to do with recording the weather, but which looked like it had been rigged up by a wannabe Professor Branestawm in his garage.

The misty conditions make the hike atmospheric, though, throwing an eerie cloak across the moss-covered lava fields and chunks of loose rock and tephra.

I retrace my steps, following a path through the black lava, until I reach a short flight of stone steps and discover myself practically outside Bónus supermarket in the town centre.  It reveals just how close the eruption came to engulfing the entire town.  As it is, I take advantage of this proximity to pop inside and buy a chocolate bar, to give me a bit of energy for the walk back to my lodgings.

© E. C. Glendenny

E. C. Glendenny has form with volcanoes.  Check out her adventures on Mount Etna.