Ups and Downs on the South West Coast Path

I’ll be the first to put my hand up and admit my mistake.  It was naïve of me to only consider the route in terms of distance when I was planning to walk the South West Coast Path and not elevation.

On paper, the 7½ miles between Lulworth Cove and Kimmeridge sounded like a morning stroll; similarly, the 13½ miles from Kimmeridge to Swanage nothing more than a healthy schlep.  The trouble was my paper was flat, where the landscape distinctly was not.  It was up and down.  Proper up and down.

Add to that, I was walking during a May heatwave.  In fact, the hottest UK May temperatures on record.  Somewhere, the mercury hit 35.1°C.

During the walk, I experienced two genuine moments of “am I being stupid doing this?”; one long, grinding walk of attrition; and one moment of mild hysteria.  They occurred, respectively, at the foot of both Bindon Hill and Houns Tout Cliffs; walking up Tyneham Cap; and faced with the ‘downie upsie’ at St Adhelm’s Head.  Why couldn’t someone have just built a bridge across that gap?

But, in each case, the physical misery of the ascent (sometimes descent) was outweighed by the beauty of the natural scenery; the difficulty of the climb by the sense of achievement when the summit was finally won.

When I was at school, I was taught to read the contour profile of a map, but it is a lesson that I have clearly forgotten during the intervening years.

Thankfully, the final section of my coastal walk, from Swanage to Poole was relatively flat.  The only elevations I had to face there were on the one-mile section of nudist beach between Studland and Shell Bay.  And they weren’t anything to talk about.

© E. C. Glendenny

E. C. Glendenny prefers going down to going up. Oo-er, matron.

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