The archetypal desert oasis features palm trees around a remote water source.  The modern desert oasis does not have water as its prime requisite, but fuel.

In Namibia, two such small communities, both of which currently thrive around a gas stop, are Solitaire and Betta.  Solitaire stands at the bisect of the C14 and C19 highways, between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei; Betta at the junction of the C27 and D826, between Sossusvlei and Luderitz.

They both have a similar ‘outsider’ vibe to the small town of Seligman, which I visited whilst travelling on Route 66.

The rusting shells of vintage motor cars, trucks and tractors lie half-buried in the sandy entrance to both settlements. 

The distinctive outlines of wind pump and water tank cast long shadows across the desert ground.

This is Mad Max territory; post-apocalyptic outposts of civilisation, surviving upon the worship of the diesel engine.

In each location, there can be found the essential, basic requirements for the desert traveller: toilets; a café; a general goods store; stuffed local wildlife; a display of Nazi glamour magazines.

In Solitaire, any potential ‘edginess’ is alleviated by the presence of ‘Moose’ McGregor’s Bakery, which famously serves apple pie and custard, home-cooked to a traditional German recipe, and reputed to be the best apple pie in the world.

I mean, how am I going to be able to resist that?

My takeaway portion comes in a polystyrene container, which does not seem very traditional but, as for the taste… does it live up to its billing?

Nice cinnamon spice; plenty of fruit; fantastic off-grid location; a posy of energetic ground squirrels playing at my feet – in the moment, I’m finding it hard to remember a better dessert I’ve ever eaten in the desert.

© E. C. Glendenny

E. C. Glendenny indicates her direction of travel after her desert pit-stop.